Cannondale Super Fatty M Headshok Suspension Fork Service/Overhaul Instructions Headshock. Cannondale Super Fatty M Headshok. Disassembly and reassembly, Step by Step. A guide to removing, dissassembling and reassembling a Cannondale Super Fatty M Headshok. Nigel Pickard. Please note: I (Sheldon Brown) did NOT write this. I have not worked on one of these forks. If you get in trouble, don't bother asking me for help, you're on your own! I'm posting it in hopes that it might be useful to some folks, but I can't give you any assurance of how the job will come out if you choose to attempt it.. I did all work by myself with no help. Cannondale manual and Tech Information, Lefty manuals and spare parts. No products in the cart. Cannondale Lefty Manual Archive. Cannondale Lefty - Front Shock reviews, user reviews, ratings, price, photos, forums - Mtbr.com. LEFTY SPEED DLR DAMPING CARTRIDGE This document explains how to properly remove, disassemble, inspect, reassemble and reinstall the Lefty Speed DLR2. About Replacement Parts & Kits You Will Need. It can be a one person job. It's not half as bad as people will lead you to believe, and the design of the fork holds no terrible secrets - conceptually it's actually pretty simple! A cautionary note though: I found the job to be pernickety in the sense you had to do some stuff in the right order, and it makes a difference if you do. All I can say is that the order I've listed is the order I found that worked for me, and usually there's a method in the madness for a reason. It took me about 8- 1. Admittedly, I do have some tools already, but everything else I needed I use in the general maintenance of bikes and is not Cannondale specific (e. If I screwed up this fork or couldn't get if back together, it didn't really matter, I'd just go ebaying and get a set of adaptor cups and a used fork (also keep in mind I believe when you strip a Headshok, Cannondale may consider any warrantees null and void). My primary objective was to disassemble the fork and put it back together. If I could do this, I'd then invest in the necessary Cannondale parts and fit them myself. 2010 Cannondale Scalpel Team Carbon- Fork: Cannondale Lefty. Frame Tubing Material: Cannondale Carbon Si BB30. Handlebar: Cannondale C2. Handlebar Stem: Cannondale Si stem/steerer. New 2016 Cannondale Habit Carbon 3 Lefty 27.5. Cannondale Lefty DLR - Front Shock reviews, user reviews, ratings, price, photos, forums - Mtbr.com. I had nothing to lose but time here. This means that I put this fork back together the best way I could (Cannondale diagrams notwithstanding) using at best some guesswork and . Let me reveal here I'm not a professional bike mechanic, nor am I a qualified mechanic in any area. What I have done is strip various car/motorcycle engines down and put them back together - working mind you!!!! Then again, she says I'm really good looking too ; ^). I consider myself to be confident at mechanics... The point here is that I'm just posting what I did - I am by no means suggesting this is the proper or appropriate way to safely reassemble a Headshok. So here you have it, caveat number 2: You mess with your Headshok at your own risk and this posting does not constitute in any way any endorsed ways of properly servicing or assembling or reassembling Headshoks. I am also not responsible for your costs or damages incurred, personal injuries, first born child, blah blah blah. It's all your responsibility and I can't vouch for the accuracy of this post or be responsible for any mistakes contained within. I have no idea about any other Headshok models, they may be totally different as far as I know. The Super Fatty M is an 8. It came as standard on my 2. Jekyll. I googled, I yahooed, I did everything I could to search for any variation of the words . Let me tell you: there isn't much out there. And what there is, is hardly encouraging. Certainly Cannondale provides no technical help in the sense of stripping down a Headshok - just rather weak technical diagrams and advice such as . Anyway, here are some helpful links I found. Cannondale technical diagrams in the archive. This was the site that helped me the most - not least because of the clear directions but also great photos. On the downside - and rather worrying for anyone reading it - it does not include reassembly instructions, nor the disassembly of the bearings and races). Mical supplied this copy of the complete Cannondale Headshok service manual. I've always been a bit pigheaded anyway - and like I said, I had nothing to lose. After calling three local Cannondale dealers, I found them in stock at Bikeway Source (http: //www. Bedford, Massachusetts. I talked with Eric - a very nice guy - so I'm giving Bikeway a plug here for good service. If they are not identified on the diagrams by Cannondale, I'll do my best to describe what I'm referring to. It might be a good idea to have the Cannondale technical diagrams printed out in front of you. I did not find any left handed threads on any of the parts. NO REALLY!!!!!!). Let me try to do this as succinctly as possible: conceptually, you can think of the Fatty M as two cylinders, one inside the other. In between the two cylinders are four sets of long rectangular needle roller bearings set equidistantly along the circumference of inner cylinder and lengthwise down the cylinders. These bearings allow the two cylinders to glide effortlessly between each other. Now, instead of these bearings hitting the metals sides of these cylinders directly, there are long metal strips (races) on each side of the needle roller bearings. Hopefully, you're still with me - look at the Cannondale technical diagram to get a better idea here. Bear with me (oooh terrible pun) - remember I put at the title . You have 8 races (four on the inner cylinder, four on the outer cylinder. These races are of fine tolerances - and like most things mechanical, you are best putting them back together the WAY THEY WERE PUT TOGETHER INITIALLY. So this means that however you disassemble or assemble the fork, you should try to keep the same races in the same position and orientation. Please, please, remember this. This should be engrained in your brain when you are working on your Headshok. I can't stress this enough (well, actually, that's not true, but it's the bloody easy way to do this, and you don't want the hard way). Of course if you screw this up like me... A little side note here: I can't recommend enough that when you are working on something, if you have the opportunity to protect a part that is likely to be damaged by knocks or contaminants, take the time to protect it or remove it out of harms way. It'll save so much time in the long run and usually provide you with easier access and ultimately give you a much better temperament to work on things. On a nostalgic note, I remember my father showing me how it was so much easier to remove the hood/bonnet of a car to work on the engine if you were going to work on it for a long time. Thanks dad, a lesson learnt and not forgotten. Remove top cap using allen key. Put aside safely in a clean box for the parts. I wish I could practice what I'm preaching here, but alas, I can't tell you how many times I've put a part down, and the . Putting the parts away safely makes it so much easier - I just really wish I could apply that myself! Remove stem from steer tube. Place a block of wood on the top of the steerer tube and tap it *gently* with a hammer. The fork should drop out of the headtube. The next step is to secure the fork so that you can work on it easily - remember, I said there was only one of me and it can be a one person job: Remove the quick release skewer from your front wheel. Put this on your old front axle, and fix your fork to the front axle with the quick release as you would your front wheel. Next, place this axle with fork affixed in your vise (depending on the size of your vise, it might have to go in at an angle - which I actually found was easier anyway) and tighten. The vise should be clamped with enough force to prevent the fork from easily moving. You now have a makeshift way of freeing up your hands to work on the fork! Again, I recommend wrapping the boot with a piece of cloth and securing it with electrical tape to reduce the chance of you cutting the boot while your are working. Using the Park SPA1 pin spanner, unscrew the aluminium cap from the steerer tube. Be careful; you need to hold down the pin spanner to prevent it slipping (which it will do quite easily - and happened to me. I have a big scratch on the top of this aluminium cap - fortunately it is hidden by the top cap cover so it doesn't matter aesthetically. However, for future disassembly reasons, you don't want the two pin holes to become burred over so be careful). The fork should now slide freely up and down. You should now see the aluminium cap attaced to a rod. To remove this cap, slide down the foam spacer, and use an 1. Use the Park SPA1 pin spanner to turn the aluminium cap anti- clockwise. Place the aluminium cap in your box of parts. Pushing down on the fork, you should now see the castlenut about a centimetre down in the steerer tube. To remove this castlenut I used a home fashioned tool out of a door hinge, but you could also use a bladed screwdriver. At this point, if the castlenut is on very tight, rather than burr the castlenut, it might be best to purchase the specific Cannondale castlenut remover tool (http: //www. I was fortunate, I found the castlenut came unscrewed with very little effort. You should now be able to grasp the rod, and pull out the compression assembly with the castlenut. Put this safely away in your parts box (note: if you are upgrading the spring/elastomer to an air unit, the bottom cap at the base of the fork steerer tube is simply a compression fit and obviously needs to be removed as you'll have access to your air valve there. You can just use a socket extension and hammer to knock it out of the steerer tube if necessary). Looking down the outer steerer tube, you should be able to see the four outer races (seemingly not secured in anyway but resting up against the thread at the top of the steerer tube) and inside the inner/fork steerer tube, you should be able to see your suspension spring (greensoft, bluemedium, redstiff). You can use your Park pin spanner to hook on the spring to lift the spring and elastomer assembly out. Put away in your parts box. Now, if you look carefully at the top of the inner/fork steerer tube, you should be able to see the tops of four inner races - secured by a race retention clip (looks like a regular washer with four protruding tabs on the outside where the races are secured). It's at this point I can proudly proclaim this was an original idea of mine.
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